Spare rifle parts

[mariahorn]

Before I submit my final order, I'd like input from all you professionals.

I have a blast (really, I do, well, kind of, no, not really) retaping rifles and frequently repairing/placing bandaids on rifle butts and tips. I finally figured out a way too make them not get so chewed up (three layers: electrical, strapping, electrical), but want to stop wasting so much time and buy a bunch of replacement parts so I don't have do be so OCD about it.

I'll refer to this since it's the best site for seeing picture and description of replacement parts: http://www.marchingworld.com/pg240a.htm

Should I just get "B" and "E" (flat rubber butt and tip plates), or do you have any experience/knowledge/preference about the "wrap" butt plates (item "C")? In the picture, is item "D" a wraparound thing for the tip, and would it add much more weight or bulk than the regular round flat butt plate?

If my rambling doesn't make sense let me know. I guess I'm mainly asking for input on whether or not the wraparound plates would be better than the regular ones.

[mariahorn]

One more question: I do the two strips of strapping tape around the bolt (and two in other spots). Should I be taking off the bolt, put the strapping tape around the rifle, reapply bolt, tape again, or is the tape around the bolt good enough.

Sorry for the questions, but since we recently got 15 rifles that the school will own and loan to students, I want to make sure I take every precaution necessary to make them last a long time, but also don't want to be using a lot of my time to do extra steps if they're not needed.

[fieldshowqueen]

One more question: I do the two strips of strapping tape around the bolt (and two in other spots). Should I be taking off the bolt, put the strapping tape around the rifle, reapply bolt, tape again, or is the tape around the bolt good enough.

Sorry for the questions, but since we recently got 15 rifles that the school will own and loan to students, I want to make sure I take every precaution necessary to make them last a long time, but also don't want to be using a lot of my time to do extra steps if they're not needed.

OMG!! I'm not the only one!!! I love you maria!!!
Here's how I do this:
We use B and E in black. If you can't find B in black, you can cut 2 from one E pad. We tried the wrap around and tip barrels and they threw the balance off for a couple of girls, so we went back to the flat replacement rubbers.

You will need a pair of scissors, a phillips head screwdriver, staple gun with 1/2" staples, wood glue, wood filler, rubber ends, a new bolt and screws, a new strap and new strap hardware and screws, black electrical tape, white electrical tape, and 1/2" packing/strapping tape. You may also need a vice if you are gluing the rifle.

Time:
Untape and unscrew old hardware - 15 minutes
Retape and apply new hardware - 20 minutes
Glue or wood fill - 10 minutes plus 24 hours dry time

Hints:
Cut the packing and black electrical tape into 6" to 8" pieces ahead of time.

1) I unscrew the strap and hardware. If the bolt is over the tape, I remove it at this time also.
2) I remove all of the old tape down to the last layer. I check to see if that last layer is basically holding the rifle together. If the entire rifle is cracked then I throw it away. If it only has a slight crack it can probably be glued without throwing the balance off. I remove the rest of the tape carefully, then put wood glue in any cracks and place it in a vice to dry overnight. If the bolt was under the tape I remove it at this time. I look at the holes where the screws were and possibly fill them with a wood filler depending on how deep or tweeked they are. Since new screws are put in when this dries, the weight and balance are not affected by filling them and it helps hold the new screws in place. If you fill the holes, you will have to wait a bit for the filler to dry.
3) I remove the old end and tip rubber and replace it with new. I tack staple the new rubber in place - two on the butt and one on the tip - using a staple gun. This holds the rubber in place better.
4) I tape over the rubber using black electrical tape in a cross pattern, two layers at right angles to each other. The electrical tape folds over the rubber and 1/2" onto the rifle.
5) Using 6 to 8" strips of packing (nylon reinforced) tape, I start at the butt and cover the first 2 to 3" of the stock from the butt to the bolt making sure the tape lies as flat and possible and the ends and edges overlap. I then skip up about 2 to 3" to the end of the bolt and wrap the entire bolt section not just the stress points. I then skip about 2" and wrap from that point to the tip. The tape will basically make a basketweave pattern. I do NOT cover the butt and tip rubber with packing tape, but rather tape up to the rubber which covers the black electrical tape holding the rubber down.
6) Replace the hardware for the strap and cover the metal and screw head with a bit of strapping tape. Do not cover the ring that holds the strap. By placing the hardware over the first layer of tape, it won't have tendency to unscrew since the tape glue holds the screw in the wood a bit better.
7) I take 6" strips of packing tape and tape just under the rubber of the butt and tip. There will now be 2 layers of packing tape for about 1" at either end.
8) Using electrical tape (usually white) start at the butt and continuously sprial the tape around the rifle to cover the packing tape (overlapping the edges about 1/8"). Pull/stretch the tape slightly and make sure it lies flat and has no bubbles. If you get a bubble you can slit the tape a small bit to let the air out and flatten it. When you are done wrapping the white electrical tape, there will be three taped sections separated by two untaped sections. This keeps the weight at a minimum. The unwrapped sections do not need tape because they are not stress points.
9) I replace the bolt with a new one using new screws. This goes on the OUTSIDE of the tape. Call me a purist but I like the look of a silver bolt versus one that is covered by tape.
10) Attach a new strap. Put a piece of white electrical tape over the strap screws.

I hope this makes sense. I should probably make a video of this ... lord knows I've done it thousands of times and can probably do it in my sleep. I have my daughter's first rifle from 6 years ago. It has been retaped 3 times and glued once and is still useable.

[mariahorn]

Thanks! Yes, a video and/or some pictures would be great.

Right now I'm working with brand new rifles, but what I noticed throughout the season was when I was having to take strapping tape off, whether over the bolt or over just wood, it was a pain in butt to get off! Little pieces did not want to cut off. What I do now is put a layer of electrical tape underneath anything I put strapping tape on, hoping that when it comes time to take it off for some reason it should be a lot easier. Time will tell I guess.

[fieldshowqueen]

Well ... another "hint" is wipe the last layer of tape with Goo-B-Gon to soften up the tape glue then use a 1" plastic painter's scraper to get the tape off. The stock will be squeeky clean and ready for re-wrapping. BUT, I've found that sometimes this takes some of the paint off.

And speaking of paint, another "hint" is if you are re-wrapping and the areas that aren't wrapped are really banged up and scratched (which is rare because whatever paint they use is really hard and good stuff) and you don't want to tape over them to avoid adding more weight, fill the deep gashes with wood filler, let it dry, sand it, then very, very, very lightly spray paint the stock using a semi-gloss or eggshell finsh white paint just enough to make it look good. The danger with this is it will add a bit of weight and it must be applied in dry conditions and left to dry for a week or more. You could try to sand down the entire stock and repaint it, but I've never had to do this so I don't know how well (or not) this would work.

I was kidding about the video, but it probaby would help to understand how a bit more. So, come on down and we can get going on making one!

[TBDecker]

I also have a "fixing my rifles" question. recently my guard captain has gotten it into his head taht our rifles are completely inferior because they do not have straps. I have told him that we are not buying new rifles, we just bought some last year, so he priced out the "replacement" strap parts and wants to add them to our rifles. Can this be done without altering the balance and the use of the rifles? Is there any other information I should take into account while pondering this decision?